PFAS, DWR, and Our Path Forward

At Crescent Down Works, we’ve always believed that how something is made matters just as much as what it’s made to do. We build outerwear meant to last for decades—not seasons—and we take that responsibility seriously.

Over the last several years, growing research has raised concerns about a group of chemicals known as PFAS (per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances), which have been widely used across many industries, including outdoor apparel, for water- and stain-repellent finishes.

As the science, regulations, and material options have evolved, we’ve been working closely with our fabric partners to transition away from intentionally added PFAS in our water-repellent treatments.

This page explains what that means, where we are now, and where we’re headed.


What are PFAS, and why are they a concern?

PFAS are a large class of synthetic chemicals valued for their durability and resistance to water, oil, and stains. That same durability is also why many PFAS are sometimes referred to as “forever chemicals”: some do not readily break down in the environment.

A growing body of peer-reviewed research has examined the environmental persistence of certain PFAS compounds, along with potential health impacts at elevated levels of exposure. This research has led to increased scrutiny, regulation, and material innovation worldwide.

For those interested in learning more, public-facing resources from the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and investigative reporting by outlets such as The New York Times, The Guardian, and ProPublica provide additional context on PFAS use across consumer products and supply chains.


What “without intentionally added PFAS” means

You’ll often see the phrase “without intentionally added PFAS” used instead of absolute claims like “PFAS-free.” That language matters.

PFAS are widespread in modern supply chains and can exist at trace levels due to environmental background or legacy contamination—even when they are not purposefully used in a material or finish. For that reason, many manufacturers, testing labs, and regulators focus on whether PFAS are intentionally added as part of product design.

Our commitment is to work toward materials and finishes where PFAS are not intentionally added to achieve water repellency or related performance.


Our transition: timeline and process

This transition isn’t a single switch—it’s a multi-year effort shaped by material availability, testing, and long-term durability standards.

We’re a small factory producing a wide range of products, from modern seasonal pieces to heritage fabrics that have been part of our line for decades. Not every material category has had a viable non-PFAS alternative available at the same time, particularly where longevity and repairability are non-negotiable.

Here’s where things stand today:

  • 2026 (Seasonal styles): The majority of seasonal pieces will use materials without intentionally added PFAS.
  • 2026 (Direct line): Our 2026 direct line will be 100% materials without intentionally added PFAS.
  • By 2027 (Full line): We plan to complete the transition across all products, including our heritage 60/40 fabric, which has taken longer to source responsibly without fluorinated chemistry.

Behind the scenes, this work includes:

  • Direct collaboration with fabric mills and finishers on alternative DWR chemistries
  • Reviewing technical documentation and third-party test data
  • Evaluating real-world wear, not just lab performance
  • Prioritizing durability, repairability, and long service life alongside chemistry changes

Our goal isn’t simply to change finishes, but to ensure Crescent garments continue to perform over decades of use.


Performance tradeoffs—and what’s improving

PFAS-based chemistry is extremely effective, particularly for oil and stain resistance. Moving away from it does involve tradeoffs, and we think it’s important to be straightforward about them.

  • Water repellency may appear less “beady,” and fabrics may wet out sooner under sustained exposure.
  • Oil and stain resistance may be reduced, especially around grease, sunscreen, or grime.
  • Care and periodic reproofing can matter more over time.

These alternatives are not static. The non-PFAS DWRs available today are meaningfully better than early versions from even a few years ago, and mills continue to refine both performance and longevity. We expect continued improvement as innovation accelerates, and we’ll adopt better solutions as they prove themselves over time.

Even with current tradeoffs, we believe moving away from intentionally added PFAS is the right direction—for our customers, our workers, and the environments where these garments are worn and used.


Care matters more than ever

As materials evolve, care plays an even bigger role in performance.

  • Wash garments when they’re dirty—oils and grime reduce water repellency faster than wear
  • Follow care instructions carefully
  • Reproof when needed using appropriate aftercare products

We’ll continue updating care guidance as materials change.


A note on older Crescent pieces

If you already own a Crescent Down Works jacket or vest, extending the life of existing garments through continued use and care is widely recognized as an important sustainability principle.

Based on current scientific research, the primary routes of concern for PFAS exposure are ingestion (through food and drinking water) and, in some cases, inhalation during industrial manufacturing—not from wearing finished garments.

Available studies indicate that dermal absorption of PFAS from treated textiles is considered very low, particularly once a product is fully manufactured and in normal use. Most research to date has focused on environmental contamination and occupational exposure rather than consumer wear.

From an environmental perspective, continuing to use and care for what you already own is often the most responsible choice. Long product life reduces the need for new production and keeps well-made gear in use, where it belongs.

Our focus is forward-looking: improving materials as better options become available, while continuing to support repair, maintenance, and long-term use of Crescent pieces made in every era.


Looking ahead

We’re committed to finishing this transition thoughtfully and transparently.

Our target is to complete the move away from intentionally added PFAS across our full line by 2027, including heritage fabrics that have taken longer to evolve.

As always, we’ll share updates as materials, testing, and technology continue to improve.

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